MALAKAND DISTRICT, having an area of about 952 square
kilometres and a population of over 4.5 lakhs as per
population census of 1998 is situated in the lower reaches
of the Swat region. Its limits start when the last boundary
of Shergarh village in Mardan District touches the outskirts
of Sakhakot village as one travels from Peshawar to Swat on
the main highway. At the meeting point between Shergarh and
Sakhakot, police and custom check posts are functioning and
the point is known as Sakhakot Board. Travelling through
Sakhakot one enters Dargai village, which is followed by the
mountainous terrain of about 15 kilometres known as Malakand
Pass or Darrah Malakand much less difficult to cross than
before because of a mattled road in it now. Crossing through
the same hilly pass you will enter the country's largest
Batkhela Bazar. You proceed onwards till Landakay village
where the limits of District Malakand end and District Swat
welcomes you.
In ancient history the name of Malakand has appeared as Mala
Kund or Mullah Kandao. There exist different versions vis a
vis its genesis as "Malakand". Some historians say that the
word Malakand is a combination of two Persian words i.e mala
and kund. In Pushto mala means aamail (garland) and kund
means ubo (water). They give the impression that when anyone
crosses the Malakand Pass the river Swat looks like a mala (aamail).
Another concept is that the name Malakand has been derived
from the words Mullah Kandao. Those who believe on this
concept take it as combination of two words---Mullah and
Kandao. Mullah means a religious saint and Kandao means a
lofty place.
Some people term the name Malakand as "Mlakandao" which
means curved like the backbone of the body. The version that
looks more convincing is based on the premise that due to
the very steep nature of the pass, travellers after reaching
its top, would complain of backache and thus ask for 'kund'
which in Pashto is a tonic for restoration of normalcy, and
'Mala' in Pashto means 'for me'-- and thus 'Mala Kund' that
is 'tonic for me' gave the name Malakand to the small hamlet
on the top.
All the notions about the name of Malakand have one point
similar and that is the characteristic of being a difficult
territory or place to climb on. In fact it is situated on a
curved line almost in a zig zag position. Many poets in the
past have also termed the mountainous terrain very difficult
to negotiate. Khushal Khan Khattak describes in one of his
couplets that the pony riders will find it more difficult to
climb on the path going to Malakand and cautions those
having lamb feet not to think of climbing on the Malakand
pass.
Any how the name Malakand is now-a-days an important and
well-known name and has been adopted in the same form by
many other villages in the Swat and Dir districts.The area
surrounded by Malakand--- on the south till Sakhakot Board,
on the north Pull Chawki or Chakdara Bridge, towards the
east till Landakay and to the west till Kot Agra comes in
the limits of Malakand District. In addition to the above
clarification Malakand is bounded on the north by Lower Dir
district, on the east by the district of Buner, on the
south-east by Mardan district and south-west by Charsadda
district and Mohmand Agency. It is also bounded by a range
of mountains on the north-east separating it from district
Swat and another range of mountains to the west separating
it from Bajaur and Mohmand agencies.
In papers the area is still an agency known as Malakand
Agency or Malakand Protected Area but in 2001, after
implementation of the Devolution Plan, a full-pledged
district government has been established in it headed by the
District Nazim who is assisted by a District Naib Nazim,
District Coordination Officer (DCO), Commandant Malakand
Levies, Tehsil Nazimeen, Union Council Nanzimeen and heads
of all the district departments.
Administratively, Malakand has been divided into Swat
Ranizai and Sum Ranizai tehsils. These tehsils are Batkhela
and Dargai where Tehsil Municipal Administrations have been
established. A part of Malakand is occupied by the
Uthmankhel clan of Pukhtoons (Pathans), while towards the
south, at the bottom of Malakand Pass, live the Ranizai
known as Sam Ranizai. Those living beyond the pass towards
Swat are Swat Ranizai. The road in the pass has many turns
and zigzags and appears to have been scientifically
designed. Before partition the road in this hilly pass was
very narrow and at the turning edges, vehicles from the
upper side would have to stop to give way to those coming
from the lower side. Near the lowest point due to difficulty
in cutting down the road edges at the time of construction
of the hilly road, a 100 feet tunnel has been dug out.
Now few years ago, the NWFP government allocated funds for
widening of the road and now two vehicles can easily pass
through it without interrupting the vehicles coming from the
opposite direction. The tunnel has also been widened and the
rocks on the outer south side were cut down that enabled the
construction company to establish a bypass road. Though,
that road has now been abandoned by the traffic, however, in
case of emergency the same road would be available for
keeping flow of the traffic smooth.
Being a key route to Swat, Dir, Buner, Shangla and Chitral
districts, the Malakand Pass has remained for years the
target of foreign invasions. The ancient route between
Central Asia and India passes through it. Before the British
occupation, it represented Pukhtoon grandeur. Prominent
Pukhtoon Sardars particularly Ranizai--a division of the
Yousafzai Pathans inhabited it. The chief town of Ranizai
was Dheri Alladand, where is the tomb of a holy man, Mian
Allahdad alias Chishtee Baba, a dervish, held in great
reverence by the Pukhtoons of these parts.
Thana, Batkhela, Malakand, Dargai and Sakhakot are important
towns of Malakand. Malakand is about 2705 feet above sea
level.
Geological surveys identifies that the northern part of
Malakand is occupied by the main mineral thrust material
also known as Melange Zone rocks. Composed of volcanic,
phyllites, slates, green schist, quartzite and other oceanic
metasediments. The middle part of the Malakand Protected
Area comprised metasediments and granitic rocks. The
granitic rocks are named as Malakand granite and Chakdara
and Bazdara granite. The Malakand Power House tunnel or
Benton Tunnel passes through these rock formations. In the
south near Dargai is the ophite rocks, known as Dargai
ophiolite. These ophite rocks contains chromite, soapstone,
asbestos, manganese and magnesite.
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